Thursday, September 9, 2021

Secret Brownies



 

I was going to title these "almond butter brownies" but felt it would be a figurative - if not literal - misnomer. These babies are indeed almost entirely made out of almond butter, hence the literal accuracy, but they do not taste a thing like almond butter. (Which - I think everyone will universally agree - is a good thing. Almond butter does not get people going like peanut butter does.)

Not only are these gluten-free and dairy-free, they are also refined sugar-free, being sweetened entirely by maple syrup. I owe this recipe to a wonderful cookbook called "Sweet Laurel," which specializes in gluten-free, dairy-free, and refined-sugar-free baking. When a devoted baker finds out she has Hashimoto's disease, she finds a work-around! Thanks Laurel for the wonderful recipe.

These babies are so fudgy, delicious and intensely chocolately, no one will know your secret. These keep very well in the freezer and taste good at all temperature ranges. (In the name of research, I've taste-tested them from straight out of the oven to solidly frozen, and everywhere in between! You're welcome.) 


Secret Brownies

from the Sweet Laurel Cookbook by Laurel Gallucci & Claire Thomas

Technically, to make these 100% refined sugar free you need to make your own chocolate chips using maple syrup. I could not be bothered to do this, but if there's another quarantine I will try it out and report back. Also, the original recipe calls for cacao powder instead of cocoa powder. The difference is only in how the cacao beans are roasted. Cacao powder is more bitter but has a higher nutritional value. So use unsweetened cacao powder if you want to feel extra good about eating these treats.

2 cups (500 g) almond butter

2 large eggs

1 1/4 cups maple syrup

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup (48 g) unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon pink salt

1 cup (170 g) chocolate chips


Line an 8 x 8 baking square with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 350.

Whisk together the cocoa powder, baking soda and salt in a small bowl. Set aside.

Mix the almond butter in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment on medium speed until it is completely smooth, then mix in the eggs, one at a time incorporating well after each addition. Then mix in the maple syrup and vanilla. Finally add in the cocoa powder mixture and mix until smooth. Stir in 3/4 cup of the chocolate chips and pour into prepared baking pan. Sprinkle the rest of the chocolate chips on the top and bake for about 30-35 minutes, or until the brownies are just set around the edges of the pan. As always, don't overbake!  


Thursday, April 22, 2021

Banana Rum Cakes with Caramel Sauce, gluten free, plus how to turn a recipe into a GF one!

I was going to use this delectable banana cake recipe to talk to you about how I clearly have an obsession with baking rotten bananas into yummy treats (see here, and here!) but I realized that I haven't yet done a post where I really dig into substituting gluten free flours for all-purpose flour, and this recipe is a classic example of how easy it is to switch to gluten free in your baking.

When I first discovered my serious health issues with gluten, I started baking gluten-free as most people do: I bought pre-mixed gluten-free blends at the store. There is nothing wrong with pre-mixed blends. In fact, when I'm feeling lazy I have three different King Arthur GF blends that I reliably and successfully turn to. However, as I got used to eating gluten-free I realized that the guar gum and xantham gum found in store-bought blends cause some of the same digestional issues I had from eating gluten. Those gums had to go! Only problem was, those gums are there for a reason. They help hold up the baked goods in the same way gluten does, by providing structure. Luckily there's a binder that is a good alternative to xantham gum: psyllium husk. You need to use 4x as much psyllium husk as xantham gum in a recipe (use 1 tsp psyllium husk per cup of flour called for), but other than that, it does just as good a job, plus it has the added benefit of being a natural fiber source. 

So if you too have decided you need to try to make your own gluten-free blends instead of relying on the pre-mixed ones, the one thing you MUST have is a scale. You absolutely CANNOT expect to turn a gluten-recipe into a GF one without a scale (unless you are using a store-bought cup-to-cup blend.) In general baking terms, weighted ingredients are much more accurate, and will give you tasty results each time. Measuring by volume with cups is not only less accurate it is also more time-consuming. Once you get used to it, you will never go back. Additionally, measuring with a scale is even more important for GF baking because the best way to replace all-purpose flour in a recipe is to replace it with the same WEIGHT of alternate GF flours. So if a recipe calls for 1 cup of all-purpose flour, you can just get out your scale and spoon in a few spoonfuls of a whole bunch of different gluten-free flours until you get to 120 grams and that (plus 1 tsp of psyllium husk) will be your substitute. 

Now which flours work best for what? In general terms, white rice flour, almond flour and sourghum flour are the best GF flours to substitute for all-purpose flour. If a recipe calls for cake flour I use a mix of white rice flour, sourghum flour, tapioca flour, and cornstarch. If a recipe calls for bread flour I use brown rice flour, sourghum flour, potato starch*, and tapioca flour. When making pancakes and muffins (the easiest things to make gluten-free!) I like to experiment with different blends but love using brown rice flour or almond flour as the main flour with smaller proportions of buckwheat flour and/or millet flour (both are flours made from seeds.) There are some flours that really mess with a recipe because they absorb too much liquid. Coconut flour and potato flour* are ones that do this and I would not try to use either of these flours when replacing all-purpose flour in a recipe. Other flours like quinoa flour, teff flour, pistachio flour and hazelnut flour, have very strong flavor profiles so you should also proceed with caution there. Teff flour and buckwheat flour both pair well with chocolate but generally should not be used as the only flour when substituting for all-purpose flour. When baking a cake that gets most of its structure from beaten egg whites or beaten whole eggs, such as angel food cake, chiffon cake, genoise cake, or really any cake at all that involves you folding egg whites into the batter, or beating whole eggs for a very long time (sometimes a chiffon or genoise cake recipe is not labeled as the type of cake it is), you should NOT use psyllium husk in those recipes, and white rice flour by itself is the best substitute. 

I hope that was a good introduction to flour substitution for those of you adventuring into the promising and tasty world of gluten-free baking! I packed a lot of information into just a three paragraphs so if you have any questions or need clarification leave a comment and I will see if I have an answer for you. All in all, making a recipe gluten-free is super easy. Especially when you are making a butter-cake based recipe like the one below, that is chock full of sweetness and flavor, no one will know that it is gluten free. Of course, as in gluten baking, it helps to have a good understanding of basic baking techniques, to have an accurate, well-performing oven,** and to not ever, ever over bake! 


*Potato starch and potato flour are two totally different flours with completely different properties, they are not replaceable for each other and should not be confused with each other.

** If your oven is on the older side, I highly recommend buying an oven thermometer so that you know exactly what temperature your oven actually is. It can often be 100 degrees or more off of what the dial says!


Gluten Free Banana Rum Cakes with Caramel Sauce

adapted very slightly from Sweet by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh

If you don't need these to be gluten free then simply substitute 110 g of all-purpose flour for the white rice, sorghum and psyllium husk. But I promise you, these babies are perfection and no gluten-eater would be able to tell these apart from a gluten-filled one. 

Sugar work can be tricky but the caramel sauce is TOTALLY worth the minimal extra effort. Just read the instructions very carefully twice over before even thinking of starting the sauce if you've never made caramel before. 

All ingredients should be at room temperature, but it is particularly important for the butter to be poke-a-hole-through-with-your-finger soft. 

I used a mini bundt pan that made six small bundt cakelets. Each cake was enough for two people so next time I will use my extra-mini bundt pan that makes twelve small bundt cakelets. Use whatever muffin or small cake pan you have but make sure you adjust the baking time accordingly and do not overbake. 

Ingredients:

100 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

70 g granulated sugar

70 g brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 tsp vanilla

100 g almond flour

1/8 tsp salt 

1/2 tsp cinnamon

3/4 tsp baking soda

1 1/2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp psyllium husk

60 g white rice flour

50 g sourghum flour

230 g peeled, mashed, overripe bananas (from about 3 smaller bananas)

100 g sour cream 

2 tbsp dark rum


For Rum Caramel Sauce:

200 g granulated sugar

1/2 cup (120 ml) water

1/2 cup plus 2 tsp (130 ml) heavy cream

1 1/2 tbsp dark rum


Generously grease your mini bundt pan or muffin pan with butter and preheat the oven to 350 with a rack in the middle of the oven.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachemnt, beat the butter and both sugars for about 3 minutes, until pale and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time and mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. 

In a small bowl combine the bananas, sour cream and rum.

In a large bowl measure out and then whisk together all the dry ingredients until very well combined (about 2 minutes of thorough whisking.) 

Add the sour cream and flour mixtures in three alternate additions to the butter mixture, mixing until thoroughly combined after each addition.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pans, until each is 3/4 full. Bake for anywhere from 12-28 mins (depending on the size of the pans you used), until the tops spring back lightly when touched with your fingertip or a toothpick inserted into the center of a cakelet comes out clean. Set the cakes aside to cool completely before taking them out of the pans.

Caramel:

While the cakes are baking make the caramel. Stir the sugar and water together in a medium sized saucepan (the size of the pan is important.) Put the pan on the burner and turn the heat to medium-high. Do not stir or touch the syrup once you turn on the heat. You can tilt the pan to swirl around the sugar but do not stir. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer for 8-10 minutes, or until the syrup turns a deep amber color. Immediately remove the pan from the heat when it turns this magically color. Stir in the rum, and then very, very slowly stir in the heavy cream bit by bit. Set the caramel aside for 30 minutes before pouring over the cakelets. 

Sunday, March 7, 2021

Coconut Chiffon Cake

 

It's March in northern Vermont, which means that it's still cold as hell, there is snow and ice everywhere... and I am dreaming of escaping to a tropical paradise. Which of course, will remain a dream, as getting to a tropical paradise during a global pandemic is not easy. 

What is easy is baking this cake which will make you FEEL like you are on a tropical island. Light, airy, just the right amount of sweet, and just the slightest hint of coconut... pair it with a frozen rum drink of your choice, close your eyes, and trust me, you will BE in a tropical paradise. 

You're welcome.



Coconut Chiffon Cake (Gluten and Dairy Free)

adapted from "Gluten-Free Flavor Flours" by Alice Medrich

The cookbook I took this from has been a treasure trove of gluten-free goodness for me. I highly recommend anyone who wants to bake gluten-free to buy it! Alice Medrich is a world-class pastry chef and every recipe in this book is wonderful. When I'm substituting gluten-free flours for all-purpose flour in another cake cookbook, I usually refer to Alice's recipes in "Gluten-Free Flavor Flours" first to see if my flour choice, and ingredient ratios, are correct. 

Also I purposeful did not give volume measurements here. If you don't have one, go buy a $15 electric scale at your local kitchen store, it will make your baking SO much accurate, and ergo SO much better. You're welcome.

140 g sugar

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

3/8 cup coconut water* or light/low-fat Asian coconut milk

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 tsp vanilla

35 g unsweetened dried shredded coconut

100 g white rice flour

1 1/2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt

4 large egg whites, at room temperature

1/4 tsp cream of tartar


Line an 8x3 or 9x2** cake pan with parchment or a silicone cake liner. Do not grease the sides of the pan! Preheat the oven to 325.

Weigh the sugar out in a large mixing bowl and then take out two tablespoons' worth and set aside (to use later when whipping the egg whites.) Add in the egg yolks, coconut water or milk, vegetable oil, vanilla, dried coconut, rice flour, baking powder and salt. Whisk together until thoroughly combined.

In a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-high speed until very soft peaks form when you lift the whisk. Slowly add in the reserved 2 tablespoons of sugar, and beat until the whites are very stiff, but not dry. If you don't know what dry beaten egg whites look like then aim for under-beating them, then take the bowl and hold it over your head. You know they've been beaten enough if they stay completely in place (and don't fall on your head)!*** 

Fold 1/4 of the beaten egg whites into the yolk mixture until thoroughly incorporated. Then gently fold in the rest of the egg whites, folding until just combined. Scrap mixture into prepared pan and bake in the center of the oven. If using an 8x3 pan bake for 40-45 minutes at 300, if using a 9x2 pan bake for 28-33 minutes at 325, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, or the top springs back just slightly when pressed with your fingertip. 

Let the cake cool completely in the pan, then use a knife to loosen the cake from the edges of the pan, then invert onto a cake platter and peel off the parchment or silicone liner. Enjoy plain, or with a splash of rum. Or Alice suggests it goes splendidly with grilled pineapple slices. 


*use a brand like Goya that has a real punchy coconut flavor

** I had much more success using an 8x3, but if you don't have that size a 9x2 will be fine.

*** This is a trick I've seen bakers do on the Great British Baking Show. I've whipped so many egg whites in my life that I don't need to do this, but I still do it anyway because it's fun!