Berry Friands

This recipe is why I love to spend copious amounts of my not-so-plentiful spare time baking. These friands are beyond heavenly, and they are joyful to make. Moderately complicated while not too technical, time-consuming but able to be done in stages... all resulting in a product that is gorgeous in appearance and taste. What is a friand, you might ask? A little french cake, made with almond flour, egg whites and confectioners sugar. This recipe out of Ottolenghi's cookbook of desserts is original in its spices and its garnish. The original recipe called for star anise but I didn't even bother to try to find that it in any of our tiny local grocery stores. Instead I used Chinese Five Spice, which I had on hand, because the main spice in Chinese Five Spice is star anise. But please use star anise if you have it, or if you happen to live in a place with adequate grocery stores and specialty shops, go buy it. In a pinch, I feel that cardamon would also have been a good substitute, but perhaps only use 1 tsp.


Other than spice-sourcing, the only other difficulty I encountered with the original recipe (which led to some modification in my version written below) is that Ottolenghi and Goh instruct you to brown the butter until nutty. Even though I have browned butter in the past, on this occasion my butter was exploding! Like, bam! butter all over the stovetop... two seconds later... bam! butter all over my shirt. So I decided to cut my losses (and my cleaning up) by only cooking the butter for 2 minutes instead of as instructed. Further research has illuminated that I should have been stirring constantly and this wouldn't have happened... I will write the recipe below as I made it, not as Ottolenghi does, but if you like the brown butter taste, then please, brown your butter! I felt like the brown butter may have distracted from the wonderful play between the spice and the berry, but perhaps not. I think this means I have to make them again soon, just to be sure.


One more thing... next time I make these, I will most certainly double the recipe. These beauties are too delicious and too gorgeous to not give out as little surprise gifts to whomever may be stopping by, and the 12 this recipe make are easily consumed by my crew itself in a few days. It will be lovely next time to have spare friands to dole out. Playdate drop-off? Here's a mini-cake! Mail lady? Mini-cake! Preschool teachers? Have a friand! What a wonderful way to spread joy.

Berry Friands

adapted from "Sweet" by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh

Wash the berries before starting the recipe and lay them out on a clean dishtowel to dry. Berries should be completely dry before using them. Blueberries could also be used. 

Also please SIFT the flour, almond flour, and confectioners sugar together with a flour sifter. Don't be tempted to just whisk it all, this is an occasion where the tedium of the flour sifter is necessary. For the icing, if you have fresh, un-chunky confectioners sugar, then don't bother with the sifter.

for friands:
180 g (3/4 cup plus 2 tbsp) butter, plus 1 tbsp (15 g) melted butter for brushing tins
60 g (1/2 cup) all-purpose flour (or all-purpose GF flour), plus extra for dusting tins
200 g (1 2/3 cup) confectioner's sugar
120 g (1 1/4 cup) almond meal
1 1/2 tsp chinese five-spice (or ground star anise)
1/4 tsp salt
150 g egg whites (4 large egg whites)
finely grated zest of 1 small orange (about 1 tsp)
18 fresh and dry blackberries, cut in half lengthwise, or 36 small fresh and dry raspberries

for optional but highly recommended icing:
55 g (2 oz) fresh blackberries
12-24 individual blackberries or raspberries for garnish
3/4 tbsp water
1 tsp lemon juice
160 g (1 1/3 cup) confectioners' sugar

Brush 12 muffin tins or oval molds with the melted butter. Dust with flour, and ensure you have a good coating. Tap out excess flour. Place in the fridge to chill.

Preheat oven to 425. Place the butter in a medium saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until melted. Continue to cook until butter is foaming and solids have formed at the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve. Allow to cool to warm before adding to the egg white mixture in a few steps. (If too hot, it will cook the egg whites, however it can't be too cooled off or you won't be able to mix it in.)

While butter is cooling, sift the flour, almond flour, confectioners sugar, spice and salt into a bowl. Place egg whites in a small bowl and whisk them to a very slight froth (they do not need to be whisked completely, just for a few seconds.) Pour the egg whites into the sifted dry ingredients and stir until they are incorporated. Add the orange zest and melted butter and mix until the batter is smooth.

Remove muffin pan from fridge and spoon batter into prepared molds 2/3 of the way up the sides of each mold. Place 3 halved blackberries (or 3 whole raspberries) on top, cut side down. Bake for 10 minutes. Lower oven to 400, rotate the pan, and cook for another 8 minutes, or until the edges are crisp golden brown and the tops spring back lightly when touched in the center. Set aside on a rack to cool completely before unmolding.

To make icing, place the 55 g (2 oz) of blackberries in a small bowl with the water and lemon juice. Use a fork to mash them together well, then press the mixture through a fine mesh seive, pressing hard to extract as much juice as possible. Sift the confectioners sugar into a medium bowl, pour in the blackberry juice and combine to make a beautiful lilac-hued icing.


Unmold the cooled cakes onto a rack (using a plate will cause the icing to pool around the edges.) Spoon icing over the cakes. (Use less than you think you need for each one, to ensure that you have enough icing to go around.) Immediately place two berries on top of each cake for decoration. Allow 30 minutes for the icing to set before moving or serving the friands. Best eaten the day they are made. If you refrigerate them, allow them to come to room temperature before serving.